Scottsdale, Az
Combines sun, desert and mountains into a magical mix
by George Oxford Miller
Dan Duffy walks into the Scottsdale Plaza Resort with a pistol strapped to his hip. His spurs jingle as he makes his way across the lobby toward us. In most cities people would take one look and dive for cover or push secret alarm buttons to call the police SWAT team. In Scottsdale, no one notices.
"Y'all waitin' for a Jeep tour?" he asks.
Desert Trip
Duffy has come to take us for a trip into the desert, a place where, judging from the outfit he wears, he spends a lot of time. There's nothing drugstore about the worn jeans, boots and hats that he and his partner, Bernie Lyon, wear. Lyon would be as comfortable on a bucking horse as buckled into the seat of his Jeep. He wrangled cattle for ten years before trading his saddle for a set of wheels with Arizona Bound Tours. For the next four hours the pair treat us to an in-depth look at desert life and lore and cowboy humor. "We're off like a nightie on a wedding night," Lyon says as we pull away from the hotel. Once in the desert, we stop for a demonstration in wilderness survival.
Duffy munches a Wendy's burger while Lyon shows us how to dine on a thorn-infested cholla cactus. Theoretically, a person can burn off the thorns with a lighter, but when that doesn't work, Lyon stomps the cactus with his boot and slices a bristly segment open with his pocket knife. We all pass when he offers a sample of the succulent interior.
The Superstition Mountains, the source of more legends of lost mother lodes than discoveries of actual gold, loom in the distance. We bounce along twin ruts past yucca and thorny trees and bed-sized clumps of prickly pear cacti, the perfect resting place for rattlesnakes seeking a cool, shady place. Duffy stops abruptly in a wide streambed and pulls his gun.
"You know how to use one of these things?" he asks. We mumble that we don't.
"It's time you learned. Everyone else in big cities can shoot a gun," he says.
Duffy sets a soda can against a sandy bluff and returns to the group. One by one, we take our turn emptying the six-shooter. I'm surprised by how nervous the loaded Colt .45 makes me feel, even though I spent long hours plinking with a .22 rifle as a youth. I heft it at arm's length, aim and fire. A spray of sand about three feet from the can shows how far I miss.
Valley of the Sun
Thousands of years ago, the first inhabitants of the Valley of the Sun, the Hohokam Indians, harnessed the plentiful rainfall in the surrounding mountains with a complex aqueduct system that made the desert bloom. In 1888, U. S. Army chaplain Winfield Scott homesteaded the area and used the ancient canals to irrigate his citrus orchards and fields of vegetables. Those canals, now surfaced with concrete, still flow, but today they're more likely to nourish golf courses, swimming pools and thirsty lawns.
Scott's dream of establishing a flourishing town came true beyond his wildest dreams. Now, instead of parched desert, a burgeoning city surrounds Scottsdale's Old Town district. Yet, despite upscale shopping centers, art galleries, gourmet restaurants and four-star resorts, no one in the Valley of the Sun can, or really desires, to escape the legacy of the desert.
Ballooning
With five million visitors spending $1.7 billion a year in Scottsdale, balloon and jeep tours have little problem finding clients. Even with forty competitors, Unicorn Balloons keeps ten balloons in the air on most days.
The yellow glow of sunrise silhouettes the surrounding mountains as we pull off the road at the hot-air-balloon launch site. Saguaro cacti punctuate the desert floor like silent barbs of lighting. Creosote bushes stretch into the distance toward the advancing flash flood of houses. The guttural hut-hut-hut of a cactus wren announces the impending dawn. As the balloonists discuss wind conditions, I wander over and buy a cup of coffee from a woman selling breakfast snacks from the back of her red pickup. In the dim light, the thought of floating high above the desert floor seems like a pre-dawn dream.
Several men release black party balloons. They drift lazily upward, dancing in the currents and indicating a favorable wind direction. Soon the roar of generator-powered fans pumping air into the throats of the balloons drowns out the morning bird serenade.
The balloons began to swell and come alive like languid caterpillars struggling to metamorphose into colorful creatures of the air. As the sun crests the distant mountains, we climb into the wicker basket and hold on with unnecessary anxiety as Kevin, our pilot, fires the propane burners.
We rise slowly at first, like a dream flying, then more rapidly as the burners heat the chilly desert air. Soon the bushes became dots and the Valley of the Sun stretches out below us from horizon to mountainous horizon. The distant buildings of downtown Phoenix glimmer in the sun's rays. Housing developments creep up the hillsides like the waters of an impounded lake. Golf courses stretch across the desert floor like wrinkled green ribbons. Behind us, eighteen colorful balloons float upward to join the airborne armada.
Dusty Suburb to Sophisticated City
Years ago, before I owned an air-conditioned car, I almost perished in a July rush-hour traffic jam in metro-Phoenix. A dollar cup of ice water and a wet bandanna resuscitated me until I could escape the blazing pavement for the more moderate countryside of cacti and yucca. In those days, I pitied the people forced to live in such an oppressive climate.
Then I discovered the magic of a desert sky so blue you can almost swim in it, air so invigorating you want to bottle it, and views so expansive that your mind stretches to fill the void.
Apparently, I wasn't alone in my fascination. In 1950, Scottsdale was a dusty suburb of two thousand hardy residents who kept the city finances in a cigar box at the fire station. Five decades later, one hundred and forty five thousand migrants to the desert have transformed the citrus orchards, irrigated fields and arid desertscape into a hubbub of tourism, recreation and art.
The three hundred days of sunshine a year offer plenty of opportunities for golfing, boating, ballooning, hiking or dining. Restaurants offer al fresco seating. Concerts play in outdoor theaters. People flock to the surrounding desert and mountains. In a recent poll, residents voted Papago Park as their favorite attraction. The park features the Zoo and Desert Botanical Gardens with more than four thousand species of cacti and plants. Hiking Camelback Mountain and the other mountain parks in the Valley also scored in the "Top 10."
This is not exactly the parched image of the desert of legend and lore or even John Wayne's rugged cowboy version. Instead, like an alchemist, modern residents combine the simple elements of sun, sand and mountains and create a lifestyle that celebrates the outdoors year around.
For a one hundred ten-page destination guide to Scottsdale, contact:
Scottsdale Chamber of Commerce
7343 Scottsdale Mall
Scottsdale, Arizona 85251-4498
1-800-877-1117
Scottsdale Hotels/Motels
There are many hotels and motels in Scottsdale with something for every taste and price range. For more information and a complete list.
Click Here. (Rates, availability and reservation online)
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